Explore Tula: Where History Meets Hospitality

My name is Nadia, and together with my American husband, our nine-year-old son, and fluffy goldendoodle, Archie, we set off on an unforgettable trip across Russia in 2024. This time I will tell you about our trip to Tula, a city steeped in history and charm, just a few hours from Moscow.

Tula is reachable in several ways. Driving from Moscow takes about two to three hours along the M2 highway, depending on traffic. Buses are another option, frequent and budget-friendly, covering the distance in roughly three hours. For speed, the high-speed Lastochka train gets you there in under two hours. But we opted for the D4 train, a regional service that takes four and a half hours. The reason? The D4 is dog-friendly, perfect for Archie, who curled up happily as we gazed at the passing Russian countryside.

Tula’s train station, though, was a bit disappointing. Its worn-out look and hectic atmosphere felt jarring after the peaceful train ride. As a Russian, I felt a twinge of embarrassment, worried my husband and son would judge the city too soon. But then I thought of our trips to rural America, where my husband blushed at rundown gas stations or quirky small-town sights. We’ve both learned not to judge a place by its first impression, and my unease quickly faded.

Tula was a gem. Known for its samovars, gingerbread, and historic weapons, it’s a city steeped in tradition. We strolled through the Tula Kremlin, its 16th-century walls and golden domes glowing in the sunlight. Our son was thrilled by the samovar displays at the museum, while my husband, a history buff, couldn’t get enough of the Tula Arms Museum’s incredible craftsmanship. Our dog Archie bounded through the city parks, wagging his tail and charming everyone we passed.

We came to Tula for a taste of authentic Russian culture, and it didn’t disappoint. From friendly locals to cozy cafes serving spiced gingerbread, it was a highlight of our family trip. The train station was a bit of a rough start, but Tula’s warmth made it all worth it.

After arriving on the D4 train, we were excited to settle into our home-away-from-home, a short-term rental we booked through a local Airbnb-like platform called Суточно (Sutochno).

The apartment was in an old Soviet-era building, its blocky exterior hinting at decades past. But inside, we were pleasantly surprised. The place had been recently renovated, with fresh paint, modern fixtures, and comfortable furniture that made it feel cozy and inviting. We felt right at home — until we noticed a small oversight.

In our rush to book, we hadn’t checked whether the apartment had air conditioning. It didn’t. The windows faced the sunny side, and with Tula’s summer heatwave in full swing, the apartment turned into a sauna by midday. Our son sprawled on the floor with a handheld fan, while my husband and I opened every window, hoping for a breeze. Archie panted dramatically, giving us pitiful looks. Locals we chatted with explained that summers in Tula used to be milder, so air conditioners were rare in older buildings like ours. It made sense, but it didn’t make us any cooler.

Our first priority was to seek out the city’s coffee shops. Tula, despite being worlds away from coffee plantations, impressed with its vibrant coffee scene. Every spot visited, whether for a swift espresso or a cappuccino, served drinks crafted from fresh, high-quality beans. The city’s dedication to excellent coffee was a surprising and pleasant discovery, setting a cozy tone for the visit.

The favorite haunt quickly became “Bary,” a coffee shop near Iskra, nestled in a historic building with thick walls that shielded against the summer heat. Bary was a perfect retreat, offering cool air, speedy Wi-Fi for tackling work, and an inviting atmosphere. The staff were always nice, the desserts — particularly the honey cake — were delectable, and the place was impeccably clean. Archie, as usual, stole the show, winning over staff with his charm and earning pats from customers.

After recharging at Bary, the next destination was Tula’s revitalized riverfront (Naberezhnaya), the heart of the city’s recent renewal. I absolutely loved the waterfront’s design — it had such a welcoming vibe. The soft glow of the streetlights, the wooden boardwalk where you could sit and rest, it was all so charming. There was tons for kids to do: a ropes course, playgrounds, and rentals for bikes, scooters, you name it. Food stalls were everywhere, tempting us with ice cream and steaming corn on the cob. Shaded rest areas, comfy benches, outdoor exercise equipment, and young trees and bushes that’ll look even lovelier once they grow added to the appeal. Street musicians often played, and there were always festivals or events for locals and visitors alike. I still think back on the cozy, inviting atmosphere of that waterfront. Strolling there was hands-down our favorite thing to do.

We loved taking Archie along for walks on the waterfront, letting him stretch paws and sniff every bush in sight. Unbeknownst until the final day, dogs were not allowed on the embankment or in Tula’s parks. A local security guard pointed out a sign prohibiting dogs, but no one else had mentioned this rule during daily walks. Even the police patrols, passing every 15 minutes to maintain order, never said a word.